Thierry Laffay 2023 Chablis, Grand Cru ‘Vaudésir

“A calmer, slightly more concentrated but no less perfumed nose. It’s the scale and depth of flavour that mark this wine out as having a further step in quality. Mobile, complex – beautifully assured wine. Today I’d take the energy of the Lechet (or the 2019 Vaillons!) but this will be gorgeous in 5 years – it’s got some sneakily saline finishing flavour too – yes!” The Burgundy Report